My arms are absorbing the 'shock', that part is also primal and fun. holding on the the rope keeps the fish from coming up against a solid stop that could possibly pull/rip the tip fo the harpoon thru the halibut. Not so sure I could hold on to one that weighed well over a hundred pounds. I've so far been able to hold on to the rope and keep the fish near the boat, but the largest halibut I've harpooned was 55' long, eighty something pounds. I've always tied the rope off to a cleat, but though I let go of the rope with the hand that holds the rope tight so the tip doesn't fall off, I keep ahold of the rope with my other hand and grab the rope with both hands after the harpoon is back out of the fish. It's be easy to forget to let go of the rope in the excitement, there is something primal about harping a nice halibut. Oh, but absolutely sure to let go of the rope after the tip goes thru the fish, otherwise the tip doesn't come off the shaft and pulls back thru the fish. Carry 2 or 3 gaffs, a hay-bale the is one of my 3 gaffs on board, don't lift using the harpoon rope, wire, tip. The gill plates might work, haven't tried that, but the head, aka skull, would be too likely to deflect the harpoon, not be penetrated. Hmm, I don't and won't harpoon thru the head or gill plates. I just treat the harpoon as insurance in case the line breaks. I don't use the harpoon line to lift the fish: a nice stainless hay bale style gaff (Englund sells them) through the head bone is hard to beat to lift them in. The boat bumper method is pretty much a sure thing - and is kind of fun to sit there and wait for it to pop back up.Īnything around 60 pounds or smaller always goes in the net. Problem with the boat cleat method is sometimes the monster fish put up a massive fight that could pull out the harpoon tip when it starts pulling hard against the boat cleat. Just wait about 5-10 minutes and the boat bumper will eventually surface with the halibut attached. I've had a big fish snap the fishing line and go bonkers when harpooned, then take off on a huge run with the harpoon and boat bumper attached. But I think safest bet is about 10 feet of line with the end attached to a boat bumper. I like about 25 feet of line with an eye splice to hook to boat cleat. Whacking them in the bone is a sure-fire way to knock the fish off (essentially like sticking the harpoon through a 2x4), or, at a minimum, have to try harpooning a second time - so I stay completely clear of the head and the backbone. Bigger the fish the more important it is to not hit bone so I go 12 inches or so behind the gills in the meat. I don't worry about a 1/2' hole in the meat. And not through the gut sack: that could ruin the meat. The tip still pivots just fine in the loop of the para cord, and it pushes in just fine to. I cut mine off, and used a bowline loop and 550# test parachute cord to make my harpoon line. Fish went by by.ĭanielson uses a cheesy aluminum crimp around stainless cable, and it won't hold under serious pressure, especially once some corrosion starts.

I heard on the radio up at Neah Bay a few years ago about a guy who battled a 100+ pound fish, for a long time, finally got it to the boat, harpooned it, then hard the harpoon cable and crimp that Danielson uses fail when he tried to use it to lift the fish. I don't bother with a buoy, just attach a cord and tie it off to a cleat before harpooning a fish.

I like to carry 2 tips on board, in case the first one is iffy on holding or if we get a double of big fish. I like to sharpen my tips with a file in sort of a chisel point pattern, so they punch in easier (especially if I hit the skull). Good idea to clean the harpoon shaft once and a while with a scotch brite pad or similar, then lube with silicone spray so the tip comes off easy. You need to push HARD on a good size fish, to get the harpoon tip to go all the way through so it can pivot.

Click to expand.I aim for the head/gill plates to avoid damaging fillets, or hitting the belly where the harpoon might tear out.

Halibut harpoon for sale